Bought: Whisky Galore, 7th August 2015
No, this is only a 20cl rather than 70cl of this rare Port Ellen. Nevertheless it’s one of the most expensive whiskies in my collection. I felt I had to get an example from this legendary distillery before even a miniature cost the same price as a Manchester United season ticket (and just as hard to acquire!). At the time of writing this you’d do well to buy a 5cl of Port Ellen at auction for under £50. Even if you acquire one, will you be able to bring yourself to drink it at the price you paid?
I had to go back to the Whisky Bible 2008 to find Jim Murray’s review for this Port Ellen as release 6 came out in 2006. 94/100 classifies this dram as a “superstar whisky that gives us all a reason to live”. Hardly surprising for a distillery closed in 1983, which is now considered the connoisseur’s choice. So intimidated am I by this whisky that I wouldn’t dream of drinking any unless I felt my taste buds were finely tuned and having an exceptionally good day. Otherwise I’d feel I was wasting it.
I can only find 8 of the 14 releases likely to be covered by the Whisky Bibles in my possession and Jim Murray only scores the 4th release higher than the 6th with a score of 95/100. For my bottle he says of the taste “sweet delivery: the peat alternates with the soft Demerara for custody of the middle ground; spices abound” and summarises with “a luxurious malt and worth an hour of anybody’s valuable time.” Don’t worry Jim I have no intension of slugging it back with a dash of coke and a few ice cubes!
The Malt Maniacs (a group of very experienced whisky drinkers) provide ratings for the first 12 releases. 90/100 is slightly above average but equal with releases 2, 5, 7 and 12. Only 3 releases score higher – 11th (91/100), 9th (92/100) and 10th (93/100). On Whiskybase, 92/100 is very much the par score across all the releases but the 10th, 11th and 12th releases go up to 93/100. These are older whiskies, over 30 years, and in the video below by Donald Renwick (distillery manager at Royal Lochnagar) he mentions how well Port Ellen matures. He knew people who worked at the distillery and back then the spirit they produced wasn’t highly regarded. It’s sad that the world only found out how good old single malt from Port Ellen could be 20+ years after it closed. Bring the distillery back! And make it cheaper!